Open weave, soft shoulder, patch pockets. The single most useful thing in the wardrobe.

A plain or fine twill worsted. The suit that goes everywhere and argues with nothing.

Softer than a worsted, warmer than it looks. The winter suit that still reads as tailoring.

The second suit. Lighter than charcoal, so it works in daylight and with brown shoes.

Texture is what stops an odd jacket reading as an orphaned suit coat. Tobacco over grey flannel is the pairing.

The city odd jacket. Herringbone gives it a surface without a pattern to match.

Full length, cut to clear a jacket. A heavy plain or a covert in navy outlasts every other coat.

Camel hair or a cashmere blend. The one coat that warms a navy suit and a pair of jeans equally.

Two-fold cotton poplin. Ivory is the warmer of the two whites next to the face.

The shirt under everything from a navy suit to a tweed jacket. Oxford cloth softens with every wash.

A stripe wide enough to read across a room. Conservative enough for a boardroom.

Light denim or chambray. The piece that lets tailoring go casual without losing the line.